A Trance In The Storm

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Marienplatz is nearly deserted at the early hours of such a cold, gray February morning. The cab driver has rushed through an empty A9 in his ancient Mercedes with the recklessness of a fevered dream that has lulled the frayed nerves to a surprising sense of well-being. Like in all journey through the void, the last eight hours of flight has left the human animal with a frightening loss of any certainty about where one is, a loss that is also liberating. Fear and freedom can sometimes conspire to follow each other, freedom  lurking eagerly on the other side of terror.

As the taxi slowly comes to a halt at the corner of Weinstraße, the sense of disquiet that has been carrying me along in its path suddenly leaves me alone. And as I stare at the familiar but yet forgotten St. Peter’s towers, the incessant machinations of mind takes pity, releases me from its grip and suspends me in a magical minute of thoughtless wonder that speeds up its own destruction by trying to resist its inevitable demise.  That minute seems to have been enough, just enough, to clear away the debris that have been blocking the exit out of this ténébreuse labyrinth where the thoughts and impulses have been chasing each other. The world that was felt to be out of joint to this exhausted mind even an hour back now suddenly promises to offer a shelter.

The cold air embraces me with the brutality of a long forgotten desire. The piercing clarity feels all the more familiar as it reminds me of home, on the other side of the ocean, where too the wind kisses and slaps and bites…and brings me to the luminous world of sensations away from the shadows of derelict ambitions. The wind hisses and whispers as it pushes me away from Marienhof towards the Gothic domes of Frauenkirche through the shop-lined corridor of Kaufingerstraße. The splendors on both sides of the street, emptied of all human vanity at this hour, radiate an austere, fragile beauty that the daybreak is already scheming to dissolve. The fertile silence within the depths of the half-lit stores, on the other side of the frosty windows, stares back at me candidly. I find myself face to face with an old acquaintance as the milky sunlight spreads itself reluctantly across the wide expanse of a melancholy Munich morning. He is looking at me inquisitively through the thick silvery glass of an antique store whose barely visible interior offers a tantalizing glimpse into its well-deserved reputation for ramshackle wealth.

No matter how hard I try I cannot quite recall when was the last time I saw him. He seems to have gotten younger with age, the lines on his face mocking at me through their absence. The eyes glow as they measure me with frank disdain before leaving some space for compassion in a tranquil smile. The smile draws me closer.

As I start to step forward opening my mouth to greet him with a name that I recall I have forgotten, I feel the world around me disappearing and my raised feet meet no solid ground as they try to plant themselves back. He steps forward, his hands folded around his chest, offering no help as I watch myself vanishing inexorably. He stays standing nearby; reassuringly, terrifyingly, indispensably close.

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We have been throwing pebbles and stones back into the foaming waves of Ipswich bay. It is a bright and breezy March afternoon and other than us there are only a handful of Rockport locals down at the Halibut Point state park at this time of the year. The high tide and wind are rolling the waves into ever innovative patterns. As the waves, one after another, crash onto the tall rocks and saturate the air in a ceaseless cycle of short-lived dense cold clouds, a remarkable procession of rainbows appear right in front of our eyes. Unpredictable in their shapes and color variations, each lasting no longer than a second or two, offering stark visual contrast to the gray rocks, gray-dark ocean and a sky where gray clouds are now rapidly accumulating to fill in the void left behind by the sun as it starts its rapid winter descent over the bay. Against the backdrop of colors that are now spreading over the horizon, the dance of the fleeting rainbows create a visual music. Like a fluttering of piano notes over a slowly swelling orchestra.

The tiny little man next to me by now has been transfixed by this wonder unfolding before his eyes. Otherwise a bundle of inquisitive energy he is now silent, stunned, and his fingers — warm even outside the confines of the unfriendly gloves which I have now been entrusted with — hold onto mine with an unshakeable strength. As I breathe in the sea air it seems lighter than usual, and maybe even new.

 

 

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Invention of Anachronisms

The dusk has settled in this chilly autumn evening and your purposefully aimless walk away from the bright elegance of Piazza Navona brings you to small neighborhood shops and cozy Trattorias scattered on both sides of the narrow streets where unhurried pedestrians are ambling under leafy  trees coated with bird droppings. The smilingly furtive glances on many faces welcome you from a distance. They are happy to have you found them; and the little man in his smart hat walking excitably holding your hand definitely draws out their affection, but the buona sera carries with it a frank admission of difference and diffidence, a memory of otherness. Maybe even a hint of suffering?

She says out loud what you feel you have been struggling to accept,”this feels like home.” It does indeed. It is a familiarity of the most unfamiliar kind, as if you have stepped into someone else’s dream only to find it is taking place in your own living room.

For a fraction of a second you have that vertiginous sensation of not knowing who you are and where you have found yourself to be: a momentary loss of the weight of identities, a loss that enriches you with a sense of beguiling freedom. Then the moment passes and you catch yourself falling into nothing. The world around you finds its solidity again and you are back walking on these enigmatic streets. You are in the eternal city.  The Great Beauty.

Like all great beauties she has been mercilessly cruel too. In spurts of deathly violence, torture, iniquities. But she also seduces you endlessly in one enigmatic layer after another, in a profusion of charms both earthly and exotic, in a heady brew of potions that carry within it the entire spectrum of western civilization. So the hauntingly atmospheric evening in this what used to be Ghetto di Roma no longer speaks of the three centuries of enforced poverty and humiliation. Maybe except for in the diffidence in the voice of those who carry the imprint of that time in their collective memories? Or was that your imagination?

Nothing imaginary about Giordano Bruno’s statue, a few minutes walk down Via dei Giubbonari. Concrete, towering, unmistakably present at the same spot in Campo de Fiori where his living body was burned to ashes. Bruno the polymath philosopher, Bruno the scientist monk, Bruno the poet theologian, Bruno of the cosmological theories that find validation in contemporary science. But unlike other martyrs for science from the Renaissance era, Bruno remains an enigma, a living paradox, that still divides opinions.

Walking across Ponte Principe Amadeo bridge towards Vatican a thin layer of fog from Tiber below welcomes you into the fabled Roman night. It is a welcome of the most disorienting kind, suddenly reminding you of mankind’s tenuous grasp on time. Time not of the grand cosmological scale but time as it merely pertains to human civilization. Western civilization, even. Of which this city has seen all. Grand architectural edifices, wretched cruelty, sublime artistic achievements, obscene excesses, perfect dreams of salvation and transcendence, nightmarish oppression in their name … a living organism where the forces of contradictions sustain the body while tearing itself apart.

Dazed, under the spell, you walk back towards Centro Storico. Now Largo di Torre Argentina with the backdrop of bluish lights from stores and trams look like a gigantic frame in the process of being painted by Caravaggio.  You expect blood covered legionaries to get down from one of those trams. Bernini to step out of the tiny artisanal gelateria holding a cone of caffè e tabacco flavored gelato, bumping into Pasolini busy discussing with a fisherman the potential of Villa Borghese as a setting for a political demonstration as a cinematic act.

You sense the silence all around you. You see her join the column of dancing girls on their way to the temple of Fortuna, and his magical little hands holding on to yours as his eyes light up at the sight of the magnificent chariots…

 

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Unknowability

You wake up with a taste of rain in your mouth in your cottage in this arid island of white dunes and perennial summer. The ever familiar face of your partner is illuminated on the moonlit pillow, as the smell of nothing in particular wafts through the forgiving night. You can see the rapid movements of her eyes under the perfectly glistening eyelids, hint of a lascivious, unendurable dream on the corners of her upturned mouth, drops of sweat rolling down the curve of her eyebrows.

After a lifetime of building life together, you ask yourself, how well do you know her? How well does she know all the people you have become? As you learn to wear each others’ persona so that you don’t wear yourselves out, do you any longer remember to ask for knowledge from the seer within? Or care?

You explain to yourself: once we shed off the layers of tissues, to molecules, to atoms, to the electrons and quarks we are left with nothing but empty space. Or, non-space. Unnameable.

You console yourself: the shape of your thoughts and the marks they leave behind on the shape of your bodies are all that you can dare to know. And then the rolling waves outside your cottage flood your mind with the helplessness of a child. Doesn’t matter how many bridges we build between us, we remain islands unto ourselves.

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